Repairing
Electronics repairing is a hobby I started when I was approximately 14 years old for three primary reasons: the ability to obtain functioning hardware for well under resale value, the ability to return a profit off of used devices due to the aforementioned, and the ability to restore already-owned hardware to perfect functionality without having to return it to an OEM, risking data loss/a different model in return/high fees/long wait times/outright rejection.
This page will list some techniques that I find useful. A dictionary of terms I use are at the bottom of the page.
Troubleshooting
Before delving into a repair, it is necessary to determine the primary defects of the device. It is very helpful to understand the how the device works internally beforehand, and how each component interacts with each other in order to make the best judgement on whether a job is suitable to fix. Many software issues may have many physical catalysts, and so can hardware errors. In many cases, a device that appears cosmetically functional yet presents with many assorted issues is very likely to suffer liquid damage in some form. This is because a short circuit can either damage many individual components, or a specific component that controls many others, like a microcontroller.
Physical
Physical repairs comprise of primarily cosmetic damage, and can be corrected by replacing a number of components.
ZIF Components
ZIF latches, also known as zero-insertion-force connections, come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and mechanisms. Within most phones, tablets, laptops, and handheld gaming consoles, there are three primary types, and they generally have standardised names. For example, the P6 connector is a four-pin latch-style connector that is used for DS and 3DS touch screen receptibles.
Electrical
Electrical repairs usually involve some form of direct damage to a PCB and may require soldering, trace repair, and/or use of a multimeter.
Soldering
Soldering involves joining two electronic components using a metal with a low-melt-point called solder.
Standards and symbols
From a manufacturer, a red wires typically contain live voltage, while black wires serve as grounds. This, alongside most standard practices, isn't reliable for devices that have already undergone amateur repair.
Liquid
Liquid damage is inherently unpredictable and should be avoided for all purposes aside from data recovery.
Don't.
While many liquids, including pure water, are not conductive on their own, the impurities that the liquid will inevitably transport from component to component are. A thorough wash in isopropyl alcohol might remove many of these contaminants, but there may still be shorted components which aren't immediately causing errors, and can cause issues at an indeterminate point in the future. A device that has suffered liquid damage may appear to work, but cannot be guaranteed to be reliable and should not be resold as a refurbished device on principle. Many metallic components may now be vulnerable to corrosion.
A very good tool to clean a PCB with is an ultrasonic cleaner, assuming the board doesn't have loose surface-mount components. A screen with liquid damage is a lost cause due to the extremely thin layering.
| "Known good" | In troubleshooting, this refers to using a control variable -- a device which is known to be fully functional, used with a device that is
exhibiting issues. This determines is the issue is caused by a faulty external component or the device itself. |
| "Trace" | An trace on a circuit board is another name for an electrical path. They will also be referred to as lines, lanes, and paths.
Circuit boards may have multiple layers of traces on a single plane, so a manual repair isn't always possible. |
| "Flux" | magic liquid |
| "Solder" | magic metal |
| "Ground" | Necessary to complete a circuit, or else unneeded voltage would travel into the component which would force it to suffer an overvoltage.
Big sparks, bad smell. |
| "Microcontroller
unit (MCU)" |